120v Split Sync Reconfiguration?

BTW, somewhere I saw a statement that this reconfiguration is a 15 minute job...

Not by a long shot if you're beefing up the wiring for the increased amperage...

Yeah, that's not how it goes...the error is what you've done (shorting one of the secondaries out).  This short

The actual transformer wires need paralleled together (for 120v single phase) instead of put in series (for 240v split phase).

So where the transformer output wires in split phase are 1 = L1, 2+3 = N, 4 = L2.  (L1/L2 may be reversed for transformer polarity.)

single phase will be 1+3 = L (O-L1), and 2+4 = N (O-L2).  (Or vice versa if needed for transformer polarity.)

After correcting the wiring to your instructions

ERR: Xformer Voltage! Transformer voltage specification is far too low

Is the inverter toast because of the wiring mistakes? (Should have questioned this because something in the back of my mind said just a jumper change is illogical for converting 240 to 120...)

Not sure.  Do all four FET lights dim/flicker briefly before it errors out?

FET lights are lit and stay lit after power button press...

The transformer hums and then the power button goes red...

They do dim as the transformer hums (kind of like a tap on the horn...)

Well, for those who may be worried that I blew up my Inverter...

Back to stock configuration (with much heftier cabling)  and it's putting out 240v (actually reading 246v).

Good news. Now, if I can get some accurate documentation on doing 2x120v Split Sync...

As I was taking it apart, I did check to see that everything was done to your (above) instructions...it was.

Could it be the jumper from N to L2:

2 hours ago, Richard said:

They do dim as the transformer hums (kind of like a tap on the horn...)

So then the inverter is functionally fine, we're just dealing with a miswiring of the transformer.

I'm still out of the office, so I can't quite provide in-depth solving...but I'll try my best.

The Neutral (O-N) terminal should not have any transformer wires on it.  Voltage feedback is on the O-L1 and O-L2 control board terminals, so the transformer wires always have to go there, regardless of the output config.

The jumper between O-N and O-L2 is simply to bypass one of the AC output filter caps for an effective 10uF output filter.  Otherwise the two caps will be in series and effectively be 5uF...and the 240v equivalent is 20uF.

If just by changing wiring you're getting 246v output, then the inverter setup wasn't changed to 120v output (requires software unlock to do this).  That would also explain the "output low" error, as the output voltage was half that of what was expected.

I did change software back to 240v@60hz from 120v@60hz.

I'll read through your post and see if I can figure out what I may have done wrong this morning (although I don't think I did anything different from what your instructions stated).

(Best Homer imitation...)

Doh! (Don't let me run a Nuke Power Plant either...bad enough with small inverters...)

Unscrewed all the wires and then... 

Rewired according to your instructions...

Software: Master-Split Phase...120v@60hz

Power up results in ERR: No Slave Signal

Changed to: Normal...display shows (approx.) 120v output...(Confirmed with Fluke at about 123v)

Are there any checks I can run to make sure this will work before I do the 2nd inverter? (My wife won't appreciate being without water if we lose 240v...)(200 amp main breaker gave up the ghost this past winter (80+ years old) and I haven't gotten around to finding a replacement...so I can't get back on the Grid at the moment...

I guess I could pull out the Signeer to run the well pump again...(A little poke in the side to get you to make sure I've done this right...)(You can point me to your previous tests (Daisy) if that will work for this configuration.

I run the same setup but with the older board I think the B board.  Love it, I use two 10 solid wires going to the breaker box useing two breakers 60a I think or what ever they call them 30a per leg, so each gs is hooked to two breakers one for each output leg on the single gs since l1 and l2 output are the same 120v. I love how it can handle things, I hate the it hate maytag washers.  

If you get yours done, where do you live?  If you are close, maybe I can get you to help me upgrade mine lol.

I live out in the CA desert.

I thought I saw a video where Sean had your inverters set up in Daisy mode...did he change it to Split Sync before shipping it out?

I tried to get it to work last week (seemed like a much easier implementation)...it didn't...slave wasn't recognized by the master. Didn't think it was worth troubleshooting since Sid doesn't believe in it yet...

Everything was running fine, but we have 4 heat pumps running now (finally retired the last swamp cooler) and when the temp reaches triple digits, it pushes the 6k up over 7kw...and if the well pump decides to start up at the same time...the inverter shuts down and restarts 3 minutes later...

I spent some time balancing out some of the circuits I added to our panel...hasn't been hot enough to find out whether this solves the problem...

Also got some advice from Sean about removing the transformer bracket to improve cooling...I had complained about the inverter overheating for no good reason...Sid had commented about overheating in unbalanced panel situations...we'll see...

I can ramble on...

Yeah my gs were used in the video as split synth, wasn't never daisy.  Luckly my breaker box is balanced for me at least.

I was also the first to blow the GS as well, I think, and it was due to a connector inside being loose.  

So far, no other issue with major loads, other then my pooor Maytag screwing at the Penguins grimmlins that keep on swarming it. . . 😛

On 6/8/2023 at 8:51 AM, Sid Genetry Solar said:

So then the inverter is functionally fine, we're just dealing with a miswiring of the transformer.

I'm still out of the office, so I can't quite provide in-depth solving...but I'll try my best.

The Neutral (O-N) terminal should not have any transformer wires on it.  Voltage feedback is on the O-L1 and O-L2 control board terminals, so the transformer wires always have to go there, regardless of the output config.

The jumper between O-N and O-L2 is simply to bypass one of the AC output filter caps for an effective 10uF output filter.  Otherwise the two caps will be in series and effectively be 5uF...and the 240v equivalent is 20uF.

Is the O-N wire from the front panel supposed to be connected to Neutral on the Control Board? 

If not, is O-N supposed to be "blank?" (I'm asking in terms of inside the inverter re-wiring.)

It's still not working and my guess is that I have connected the O-N to Neutral on the Control Board...

I do know the Transformer wiring is correct...