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If not, is O-N supposed to be "blank?" (I'm asking in terms of inside the inverter re-wiring.)
Yes, it is. The jumper is (as mentioned before) just to increase the AC output filter capacitance.
I just got back home yesterday afternoon...trying to get stuff sorted...
I thought I saw a video where Sean had your inverters set up in Daisy mode...did he change it to Split Sync before shipping it out?
There were some parallel mode tests on the A.1/B board inverters awhile back, although due to a lack of control board power monitoring ability, the function ended up being rather nonusable. (The units were sent to @the-blind-wolf in split-sync setup.) Once I can get my head back above water, getting parallel functionality working on the Rev. C control boards is on the list.
Split-sync can be used with the "master" inverter in "Normal" mode. The "master split-sync" mode is only if the slave output is wired back to the master input--and the master unit will expect to see a 180-out-of-phase sine wave on the input (otherwise it'll shut down).
OK, so removing that wire should end my problems...I'll test it again this morning...(got a better strategy for it...my back is complaining about humping inverters... )
Yes, I am testing in Master (Normal) mode because I can't risk being down 2 inverters...2 pole breakers are off when I test sending power to 1 leg of the panel...
I hope you enjoyed your vacation...I was planning a trip to Nepal to do some motorcycle trekking this Autumn, but I think I'm going cross-country to visit relatives instead...
I know you have priorities, so please don't sweat this...I'll start complaining if it gets hot and power generation starts failing...
Update:
It's got to be something in my ancient home wiring...
I put together a test sub-panel and a feed to the Main...
I'm getting 120v across L1's on the input side of 2 2-pole breakers that are Off...
When I flip the breakers to On, the inverter errors out with AC-Output-Shorted...
So, another clue that maybe someone can advise me on...
I was connecting N's (including N from the wires to the house panel) to a block (because in the manual, I see all N's on the same path)...
When I disconnect from the block and tap the N's from the inverter together, there is no error from the inverter...?
(Obviously) There must be something about the house panel that's causing the inverter to thing there's a short...?
(Which is really curious because nothing seems to be "wrong" (yeah, right, in an 80 years old house) with the system pumping 240 split phase...)
Anyway, I put Inverter 1 back to 240SP and I'm going to put it back in service tomorrow morning and then modify Inverter 2 for 120v Split Sync and run another test with a Master-Split Sync and a Slave -Split Sync...
I've done the switch back-and-forth so many times that it IS now about 15 minutes for a re-config...(Sean should hire me to lighten his work load...:-))(and a LOL...)
(Obviously) There must be something about the house panel that's causing the inverter to thing there's a short...?
"AC Output Shorted" would indicate that the output voltage was down under 30vAC for a complete half wave. I probably should look into this a bit closer via video call or something when I can--maybe this weekend?
Thanks for the offer of help...
But, I decided to go back to the way the property was originally configured, with a couple of changes...(off-grid solar/GS inverters vs. 3-phase for the water system, which I dumped for standard 240v that the rest of the property was using...)
So, GS6K-2 is running the house...
GS6K-1 is running the water system and the power room cooling...
Both inverters are running (almost) fine as 240SP (GS6K-1 loves to over-temp shutdown at about 4500w...)
Thanks for the offer of help...
Wait what voltage are you running those GS? it shouldn't shut down at running a 4500w load. Unless your running it as 12v then I can see it heating up, but even then, it really shouldn't even at that wattage. Or is it in a shead with no cooling? Might want to get a duct fan and rig a dryier duct tube to the intake part on the top and force cool air into it or something.
Yeah on split mode, my wire are connected directly from one gs to the other gs blocks right next to each other to enable the split mode. then my wires go directly to the breaker, each GS has two 10gage solide wires goint to the breaker box, one for each breaker . So I got two l1 and two l2 lines and two commons.
48v.
Yeah, it's a frustrating problem that started after I started working on the re-configuration...even more frustrating is that this is in a room with AC...
I've pulled the transformer bands and moved all the wiring to make sure there's a clear path for the cooling air...
We'll see if the problem is resolved.
I don't have a clue why I couldn't get Daisy, or Split Sync, to work...but I'm done with trying to figure it out...There are plenty of things I like to do, and electricity isn't one of them...within the last month, I've reconfigured my solar arrays for high voltage, which required a LOT of wire pulling (to get rid of the excess) and tried to get the GS's to output to 1 panel...I'm pretty sure I have more efficient solar and I'll get over having to resort to 2 panels...
I'll babysit the systems for the rest of today and tomorrow I'm going back to doing fun things...
BTW: 1 has t1 at 112 and t2 at 110...1100w ac only...haven't seem the water systems kick on yet... 2 has 88 and 115...1600w...
Or is it in a shed with no cooling?
My inverter is in a power room with AC cooling to 90 degrees F or below . The inverter 4 fans throttle is 40 percent at 10000 watts and make almost no noise . Sean youtube show his two GS12kw fan throttle is 80 percent at 8000 watts and the basement got up th 97 degree F and the noise sound like a jet engine I think . AC cooling your inverter should not shut down with 4500 watts load unless the 2 inverters running heat the room to 110 degree F .
GS6K-1 loves to over-temp shutdown at about 4500w...
First time I've ever seen mention of this?? The inverter definitely shouldn't be doing that; I would be more than glad to look into this and try to find out what's going on.
I will be home tomorrow, and will be able to dig into these issues and find a solution...if you're interested in taking up my offer. There's no reason for it to be overheating at less than the full rated load. And no reason they shouldn't function with split-sync.
Asking questions in a new thread...