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I'll PM you.
No load current should be significantly below 1 amp (fans off).
well, just running at 1A from what the bms on one of my 12v batt says and the fan will kick ona nd back off every five mins or something. with it not provideing the correct volts no wonder its getting hot lol.
If you are able to get help and calibrate it back up again. I mean I can't imagine what would cause it. I was hammering on it fairly hard for 2 days with those heating elements to get video footage and it never went out of whack.
1 hour ago, Sean Genetry Solar said:If you are able to get help and calibrate it back up again. I mean I can't imagine what would cause it. I was hammering on it fairly hard for 2 days with those heating elements to get video footage and it never went out of whack.
Well, I'm still waiting to see those vids :P. We think its the outlets and me running both at same time, not sure. Keeping a eye on it. Hmm. Hey Sid, will have to try it once I get my dishes finished washed, but maybe I have to turn the inverter off then back on for the settings to take effect for the voltage change?
10 hours ago, Sean Genetry Solar said:If you are able to get help and calibrate it back up again. I mean I can't imagine what would cause it. I was hammering on it fairly hard for 2 days with those heating elements to get video footage and it never went out of whack.
His washer is a Smartdrive unit which means it wants to generate its own pulsed DC to drive the motor. I wish I had seen this two days ago when I did my washing as I also have a Maytag unit that has one. Would be interesting to see if it's because of the twin units vs my single. Next wash load I'll try mine on the inverter.
but maybe I have to turn the inverter off then back on for the settings to take effect for the voltage change?
No, it's a live setting. Very few settings require a restart to apply; 99% apply instantaneously.
16 minutes ago, Waterman said:His washer is a Smartdrive unit which means it wants to generate its own pulsed DC to drive the motor. I wish I had seen this two days ago when I did my washing as I also have a Maytag unit that has one. Would be interesting to see if it's because of the twin units vs my single. Next wash load I'll try mine on the inverter.
Nope, I only useing the master, the slave is still in the box, we was reading 99.89v, this is before I wired directly to the block and so far the ac is staying at 124.43v still having no luck on the washer, going to go check it now, it never finished last night and when I went in this morning the stuff was still wet, and I hit the button and it started back from squaqre one, which is odd for it to do that.
His washer is a Smartdrive unit which means it wants to generate its own pulsed DC to drive the motor. I wish I had seen this two days ago when I did my washing as I also have a Maytag unit that has one. Would be interesting to see if it's because of the twin units vs my single. Next wash load I'll try mine on the inverter.
So I've had 2 different washing machines running on a GS inverter setup, with zero issues (from the inverter anyhow!) First had a GE Profile washer...belt-drive system, but the 3-phase motor was MCU controlled HE-style. Then after it started going senile (motor controller started to forget how to run the spin cycle--nothing mechanically wrong with it at all), I ended up with a Maytag Bravos XL direct-drive HE washer. (Got it for free, because it wouldn't turn on! Broke the display panel apart, and inexplicably the touch buttons started working again.) Sean also has an HE washer, no issues there either.
Well, now he says it's still not working...will need to look into this further I guess.
Just went to check, yeah something is going on, they still wet, and it should still be washing right now. I've been running the dish washer all morning while the washer been going, and checking the voltage and it staying at the correct voltage. Normally when that maytag is done those clothes even towels are like almost freakin dry. not soakin wet. I got a huntch its something to do with the Hz, throwing the timeing off. I was throw it onto my 3d printer, but I got a huntch it will screw that up too. Will check on it more when I get back from doctor, almost time for me to run.
Nope, I only useing the master, the slave is still in the box, we was reading 99.89v, this is before I wired directly to the block and so far the ac is staying at 124.43v still having no luck on the washer, going to go check it now, it never finished last night and when I went in this morning the stuff was still wet, and I hit the button and it started back from squaqre one, which is odd for it to do that.
But there is where there would be a difference. Mine would be pulling the 120VAC off as split phase from the inverter while yours is running single phase 120.
1 minute ago, The Blind Wolf said:Just went to check, yeah something is going on, they still wet, and it should still be washing right now. I've been running the dish washer all morning while the washer been going, and checking the voltage and it staying at the correct voltage. Normally when that maytag is done those clothes even towels are like almost freakin dry. not soakin wet. I got a huntch its something to do with the Hz, throwing the timeing off. I was throw it onto my 3d printer, but I got a huntch it will screw that up too. Will check on it more when I get back from doctor, almost time for me to run.
Any HZ change would be the result of detected reverse AC power flow...which seems to be more a problem with split-phase setups than single-phase. If problems persist, we will experiment disabling that function.
It could also be the "auto power save function", particularly if the batts got down to 24v last night--and that'd reset your washer in a hurry. Probably need to disable that too 😉
Just went to check, yeah something is going on, they still wet, and it should still be washing right now. I've been running the dish washer all morning while the washer been going, and checking the voltage and it staying at the correct voltage. Normally when that maytag is done those clothes even towels are like almost freakin dry. not soakin wet. I got a huntch its something to do with the Hz, throwing the timeing off. I was throw it onto my 3d printer, but I got a huntch it will screw that up too. Will check on it more when I get back from doctor, almost time for me to run.
Your 3-D printer shouldn't care, at least mine doesn't. If it was going to do something, I would have thought that it would have shown up in a 4 hour run.
1 minute ago, Sid Genetry Solar said:Any HZ change would be the result of detected reverse AC power flow...which seems to be more a problem with split-phase setups than single-phase. If problems persist, we will experiment disabling that function.
It could also be the "auto power save function", particularly if the batts got down to 24v last night--and that'd reset your washer in a hurry. Probably need to disable that too 😉
Nope its still reading at 26.43v this morning and still running dish washer. got plaenty of power. and waterman even if split phase your still running on one phase either 120v l1 or l2, only diff is one is at a 180 degree back and forth from the other so shouldn't make any diff.
\just thinking before I run out the door, could it be the N being doubled up ? I will messag eyou Sid when I get back, we need to try dropping the voltage again and see if it makes any change since it didn't last time, there could be something else going on due to shipping.
A large number of appliances with PFC "universal" input voltage range often accept a large frequency variation as well--as they don't care about it too much. Often 80-265v and 40-70Hz. A frequency shift will definitely affect older appliances with synchronous motors, etc.--but most newer digital appliances just rectify the AC into DC anyhow, so you could literally run them on 180vDC if you wanted to (non-PFC though)
We'll figure it out.