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So I'm considerably slower at this than I had originally intended to be...but I figured that if I keep just tweaking and kicking the can down the road, I'll never release a final update...!
This update (as of 2022-02-26) is ONLY for the GS inverters with Rev. C boards. (Will not show for the A.1 / B boards.) I do hope to carry a number of the features over to the A.1 / B boards at some point, though. As well as the GS-upgraded PJ inverters...
Note here that features with a [C] prefix will ONLY be available on Rev. C boards--due to the added monitoring and control capability in the hardware.
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[C] add input/output amperage sensor calibrations (due to unexpected extreme variance in sensors)
- You may need to calibrate the sensors after installing the update!
- [C] add AC Input Current readout on LCD. Finally, the inverter will show how much power it measures on the AC input
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[C] finally begin preliminary implementation of the AC Input MaxAmp functionality. This allows you to tell the inverter "this is the maximum amount of power that the input can handle."
- please note, the "hybrid" power sharing is NOT yet implemented.
- inverter also will not trip off/shut down/switch back to battery if this is exceeded. Forthcoming!
- Battery charge will automatically throttle down in response to loads (all the way down to 0% if needed!) Will automatically come back up to the "Charge Amps" value if allowed. Note that "MaxAmp" will limit the maximum charge current. ("Charge Amps" now specifies a ratio from the inverter's wattage rating.)
- [C] fix AC input-output voltage matching for seamless transition (apparently randomly getting reset to config voltage)
- [C] fix noise on AC input voltage readout when no AC input voltage present
- [C] fix revised Power Save functionality not engaging from Command menu
- [C] minor modifications to error handling, now non-critical errors end at zero crossing
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[C] revamp overload alarm/error code entirely, now CPU is responsible for detecting overload.
- overload timer is based on the overload percentage--i.e. a higher overload will shut down far quicker than a small overload.
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[B/C] fix power-off "pop" from transformer (now ends sine at zero crossing before power down)
- A.1 boards do not have a means to monitor (or override) the power button, so they end the wave whenever the lights go out...
- fix missing gate on "battery charge" threshold causing it to switch to AC Mains even if Battery Charge was set to Manual
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add "Toggle" generator start mode for Westinghouse/Cummings ST-Switch compatibility
- i.e. only "presses start [B]" if generator state needs changed. [A] still is "Ignition"
- [you can thank <a contenteditable="false" data-ipshover="" data-ipshover-target="/profile/116-blackwaterpark/?do=hovercard" data-mentionid="116" href="/profile/116-blackwaterpark/" rel="">@BlackWaterPark for this feature. Sorry to say, though, the inverter will never be able to pull-start your genset for you 🤣]
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restore "Unlock Inverter" menu item (code bug!)
- fix broken gate on "Unlimited" setting
- fix JSON / remote server thermistor (non-readout) bug caused by adding Rev. C support
- correct UVP/OVP Alarm hysteresis...was >2v instead of 0.25v. Oops! No wonder it was hard to get the inverter to stop "alarming" about low battery...
- revise Command menu behavior (ATS only visible if AC Input present)
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begin to implement PFC charge functionality (to increase charge efficiency)...still needs a lot of work. Only got close to a nice sine wave on my bench--field tests thus far haven't looked anything like a sine. Oh, well...
- PLEASE SET "BATTERY/CHARGE -> CHARGE AMPS" TO A LOW NUMBER (<20%) BEFORE STARTING CHARGE AFTER THIS UPDATE! The charge current regulation thresholds have been significantly changed--causing charge to run a significantly higher amperage at the same setting.
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finally implement timed multistage battery charge (i.e. bulk -> float/disconnect after CC->CV timer expires)
- you can configure "end of charge" command to for ATS back to battery, gen stop, float, etc.
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add "TEST" mode (CFG -> System -> Mode = "Test Mode")
- identified by flashing purple power LED. Will pop up a "TEST" page, where you can manually switch each section of the inverter (relays, FETs, etc.) for diagnostic/test purposes. NOTE: Will immediately throw an error if AC voltage detected on either output or input, for safety reasons.
I've still got lots of stuff to work on for 1.1r7...once we get the 12kw saga finally on the road.
To calibrate the AC current sensors, it's easiest to do this with an AC input, and the inverter in Pass-Thru mode (i.e. no charge), and a single load. A clamp AC meter is extremely valuable here as well. NOTE: If you don't use AC input, you probably can ignore all of this!
Step 1: Identifying the problem 😉. You might be fortunate and the sensors in your inverter are perfectly matched--that'd be great. Unfortunately, we've measured a significant manufacturer tolerance in the sensors...causing this issue.
With the load on the inverter (a purely resistive load on a single phase like a hair dryer/hot air gun is highly recommended), you should see something like this:
<img alt="image.png.2a99b0a5e41f5d9016013020546d0727.png" class="ipsImage ipsImage_thumbnailed" data-fileid="1155" data-ratio="97.81" style="height:auto;" width="502" data-src="//content.invisioncic.com/g308908/monthly_2022_02/image.png.2a99b0a5e41f5d9016013020546d0727.png" src="/applications/core/interface/js/spacer.png" />
Note the clamp meter is registering a load of 9.63A. The inverter, however, is reading 10.0A on the output, and 12.2A on the input. Oops!
NOTE: The amperage numbers shown on the Calibrate Readings screen are scaled to amps in 120v regardless of the actual output/input voltage! This is to make field calibrating as easy as possible.
Step 2: Correcting the issue:
Adjust the calibration points on the "AC In" and "AC Out" lines until the amperage numbers to the left are as close as reasonably possible to the reading on your clamp meter (or Kill-A-Watt).
<img alt="image.png.ead72508d62a7f17d059abebc5a4f595.png" class="ipsImage ipsImage_thumbnailed" data-fileid="1157" data-ratio="110.15" style="height:auto;" width="394" data-src="//content.invisioncic.com/g308908/monthly_2022_02/image.png.ead72508d62a7f17d059abebc5a4f595.png" src="/applications/core/interface/js/spacer.png" />
Sorry for the "ghetto quality" of the photos...I wasn't expecting to post this when I took them 😉.
For my test bench inverter, the required calibration for "AC In" was -10. "AC Out" required -60.
As always, keep me up to date with any issues or problems. Our goal is to make the best inverter we can 😉.
So when will my main board update it self to rev C??? Oh and what is the latest Rev for the B board I think that the one I got. I'm at 1.1.3
So when will my main board update it self to rev C??? Oh and what is the latest Rev for the B board I think that the one I got. I'm at 1.1.3
Well, the former is gonna take some help to do 😉. If you have a sighted friend who's really good with electronics, a Rev. B to Rev. C upgrade is not terribly hard--and I'd be willing to provide the support needed over video call to make sure it's all done right.
Latest firmware currently for the B board is 1.1r5, though there are some issues with the WiFi temperature monitoring (caused by adding Rev. C support)...so hopefully before TOO long I'll get 1.1r6 out for the B boards as well.
Well, considering my B boasrd is running with no issue, I'm not any hurry to upgrad it anyhow.
Hourmeter
999 hours
KWh
65.6kWH
Firmware
1.1r3
Still going. When you get the code fixed and update, I'll update the firmware, and I should have the slave up by then, . My master gs don't have no battery saftey going on it at the moment, cause I can go below 20v and it won't even make a peep about it. which isn't good. I've noticed when running AGM batts that the more amps you pull the more it sag on VDC. think I might need to get some dc caps to help the batts from doing that. or get more of them. but even at 93amps its going from 26v to 24.1v and thats basicly the highest I've pushed it thus far.. Not sure how many caps the rev b board has.
cause I can go below 20v and it won't even make a peep about it. which isn't good.
That'd be a software setting.
I've noticed when running AGM batts that the more amps you pull the more it sag on VDC. think I might need to get some dc caps to help the batts from doing that.
Caps won't help that. They only help with instantaneous surges--but they cannot increase the battery voltage. That's just lead-acid being lead-acid.
Not sure how many caps the rev b board has.
Mainboard in the inverter has the full complement of 4x 10,000uF 80v caps; that's not part of the control board which I'm referring to with Rev. A / B / C.
Caps won't help that. They only help with instantaneous surges--but they cannot increase the battery voltage. That's just lead-acid being lead-acid.
Mainboard in the inverter has the full complement of 4x 10,000uF 80v caps; that's not part of the control board which I'm referring to with Rev. A / B / C.
I am confused about why he wants to modify the GS6kw with cap when the GS6kw is working like it suppose to . He can not modify a GS6kw like I can a Powerjack inverter .
Hey Dixin isn't you in flordia? want to come up here and upgrade my gs lol. I've just noticed something, and might be the reason why my washer hates the gs inverter, though it never did on the pj though the pj was 12v and that was easier to drive then a 24v since I didn't need to double up on 12v batts. anyhow. the last few days here the sun hasn't been out its been cloudy at most and raining at worse the whole time, during this time I was cooking and running my ice maker mainly off the gs. I noticed, that my ice maker would start making all sorts of loud sounds while running and get worse and worse as the days went on. Well since 9 this morning and having a good strong sun shine and my charger pumping all that power into the agm batts and it was at 28.1 my ice maker don't even make any fuss while running. So, thats basicly telling me, that the sign wave gets really crappy at certin volts. not sure if its cause of the voltage or it having a time pulling the needed amps from the bank. if its doing this on agm, I'm guessing the gs isn't really design to run on agm batts cause there is no way unless the sun is out to keep a agm battery bank above 26v. unlike the lfo batts that can stay at 13.6 while pushing power. Might have to put at least one lfo in the agm bank just to help provide the voltage sag.. So tha talso means while trying to run 240v, with one gs being agm and the other lfo its going to be one dirty power.
Pretty confident that Sid and Sean would have tested the GS at a range of DC side voltages and would have addressed any issues they found.
What you man be seeing, perhaps, is your AGM battery bank's (this includes all wiring, breakers, joints, terminals etc) impedance. The change in AC output power across the AC sinewave is reflected in DC amps draw. If there is a problem with your battery system it may be dipping significantly in voltage available to the inverter when the DC amps goes up. You will not see this with a standard amp meter, clamp or otherwise. What you need to do is put your multimeter into AC volts mode and measure across the DC input on the inverter. You must measure at the inverter's terminals, ie the meter probes touch the inverter's terminals not the wiring ring lugs etc, nor anywhere else. Not all multimeters are good for this either as reading AC volts with a significant DC voltage present too can cause problems. You should aim for less than 300mV of ripple (that can also be described as 600mV peak to peak) at the inverter's DC input.
Might have to put at least one lfo in the agm bank just to help provide the voltage sag.. So tha talso means while trying to run 240v, with one gs being agm and the other lfo its going to be one dirty power.
I parallel my AGM with lithium to get a good sine wave . My washer will never run on AGM alone as the voltage is 54v DC from four AGM battery . i parallel lithium ion battery to get 61v DC . Your lithium ifo battery will only go to 29v DC which give a sine wave for a short time and then your AC output will sag and your ice maker make noise . I do not live in Florida . I live in a state that do not like DIY solar or DIY battery or noise after 10 pm and the public utilty control everything including solar and water and is sunny all the time and 120 degree in the summer
Might have to put at least one lfo in the agm bank just to help provide the voltage sag.. So tha talso means while trying to run 240v, with one gs being agm and the other lfo its going to be one dirty power.
Sounds like the state al the way west coast. . well, putting one 12v lfo with one 12v agm should make the voltage stay up higher longer then normal, though the agm would dip lower on the VDC way before the lfo would. I wished I saved up and waited till now to buy all the stuff I did, I could have got double what I got in lfo for the same price.and I should have went 48vdc, though now its too late to do so, cause I would need to buyu so many batts to even do 48v. Oh well. I'm just doom until I get another round of throw money away from the goverment again. I still got to put up my other solar array, I only get my max charge around 8-2p.m. with the current array I got, which is facing SW. Which is odd, I need to put on SE so I can I guess get the afternoon sun. *laughs* and yes I type the direction in corectly. and the time as well. not sure why my max power input is durin the morning time. figured it would be from noon to sunset.
6 hours ago, The Blind Wolf said:So, thats basicly telling me, that the sign wave gets really crappy at certin volts. not sure if its cause of the voltage or it having a time pulling the needed amps from the bank. if its doing this on agm, I'm guessing the gs isn't really design to run on agm batts cause there is no way unless the sun is out to keep a agm battery bank above 26v. unlike the lfo batts that can stay at 13.6 while pushing power.
You might be onto something--because the lowest voltage at which the GS6 in 24v mode can mathematically output a pure sine wave is 22.6v (no load). However, a PJ at 12v would be giving you more like a square wave out--and apparently the washer didn't complain with that??
I gotta get some sort of way to get plain text on laptop webpage so you can easily access all the diagnostic info on the inverter....that'd tell us a lot 😉.
With my 12v PJ 8k it ran the washer with no issue what so ever, and with other loads, but, by it self yes it ran it no issue, even my other cheap 12v 3k inverters could run it and have no issue, and I normaly had 4 agm batts or all the lfo hooked up , didn't matter what I had it running off of, I had a switch to switch over from agm to lfo 12v banks. the washer would run fine, while the PJ inverter would be screaming from the coil.
Yeah I still useing the web site you made me, it keeps refreshing on me which throws me off while trying to read somthing and have to scroll back over and over to get the info, normaly I just select all and paste the info into notepad to see what it saying at thtat moment.
You might be onto something--because the lowest voltage at which the GS6 in 24v mode can mathematically output a pure sine wave is 22.6v (no load). However, a PJ at 12v would be giving you more like a square wave out--and apparently the washer didn't complain with that??
22.6V at low draw equates to an almost completely discharged '24v' AGM battery. An AGM with a higher SOC should be able to hold the voltage up higher than that unless it is being discharged at an abnormally high rate vs its AH rating. I don't see anything wrong with the GS' minimum clean sine wave supply voltage being 22.6. If @the-blind-wolf is seeing voltage that low at his inverter that's more a failing of his battery system than the GS IMO. See my post about battery impedance.
The fact that the appliances connected to the GS do not have the problem when the AGM is fully charged and plenty of solar is available to hold the battery at 28.1V only adds to my suspicions that there is a problem with the overall impedance of the battery / cabling etc. Checking what is happening at the inverter's terminals could well be insightful.
I normaly had 4 agm batts or all the lfo hooked up , didn't matter what I had it running off of, I had a switch to switch over from agm to lfo 12v banks. the washer would run fine
FOUR AGM in parallel for a 12v inverter the voltage will stay above 14v and be a sine wave while the washer is running . Two AGM in series for 24v the voltage will sag fast and the output AC will also sag and not run the washer .
<a contenteditable="false" data-ipshover="" data-ipshover-target="/profile/3-the-blind-wolf/?do=hovercard" data-mentionid="3" href="/profile/3-the-blind-wolf/" rel="">@The Blind Wolfseems to have 2 problems really. 1, washing machine won't run unless there is an additional load on the inverter; 2, some appliances are noisy when battery voltage is low. The washing machine is an interesting one and not directly related to battery voltage otherwise an additional load would make it worse. The noisy appliance one is quite possibly being cause by low battery voltage as the AC waveform peaks, ie, the battery or some other component of the DC supply to the inverter is not up to the task at hand. At least that's my take on things.
i can't make head nor tail of exactly how he has his AGM batteries arranged so it might be useful if the exact configuration is posted. It has been stated that 80A is being pulled from the battery so how ever it is arranged it's going to have to have a lot of amp hours at what ever voltage to be happy supplying 80A.