Pre-Order Discussions

Either way. I'm sure Sid has a idea with all the data I sent him before he went to the Wonderful land of Oz and when he finally taps those shoes three time and comes back home from the yellow brick road, he might have a fix for it.

My AC output is 124vAC  on L1 and  124vAC on line L2 .    My  microwave now run faster and  no  LED flickering .     I do not know if you can adjust the AC output  to  125v AC .     The biggest difference is my lithium-ion battery  is at  66vDC  .   The low viltage shutdown is 46 vDC . 

Microwave not as hot is also a sag issue

If it's going back and forth that's a start surge each way on a direct drive

I'm wondering how stiff your battery is

I'm guessing the china unit is a HF inverter that supports surge purely on the caps

These transfer the surge current directly to the battery 

Nah the china invert is a LF pure sign invert.

As far as makeing my AC Volts higher, its actually around 123v, the sensor in both gs are well out of range, heck if you look at the DC voltage you can tell they are both out of synth and they are both running on the same bank.  and as far as DC sag, shouldn't be, when I posted what was above, about 60a of it is being supply by my solar system at that moment. so really roughly 90a was from the bank. hardly think its a dc sagging issue.  I've litterly had more batteries on the same bank then what is currently on it right now and still had the same issue.

The GS inverters are true sine wave inverters.  We're just running up against issues with extremely overreacting equipment together with the GS inverter's response to large loads switching on and off.  These regulation oscillations (or surges) often show up as flickers in lights, as their intensity is often dependent on the AC line voltage. (SOME LED lights will be immune to this...but pretty much everything else isn't.)

It's impossible to "blanket-fix" this, as everything from the batteries, the battery cables, battery voltage, inverter transformer, inverter temperature, output loading, etc. etc. will all change how the inverter throttle adjustments affect the output voltage.

Yes, I can adjust the reaction behavior, but at the risk of causing issues.  Too slow, and customers complain about noticeable dips in the lights when large loads switch on and off.  Too fast, and A/C units run double their rated power and sound horrible.  If I change the curve, it may work better for one setup, and worse for another.

The PJ inverter may run the washer fine, BUT it will make all your lights flicker constantly due to a regulation oscillation in the firmware.  The main issue is that I don't know what your washer is protesting.

Remember, the battery current readout is completely an estimate, which I did on the HTML just for you.  It's based on Ohm's Law from output wattage and input battery voltage; different input battery voltages between the two units will necessarily result in different input amperage for the same output load.

Additionally the calibration is user adjustable on the GS

Yep, if your not blind. . . So, even if I'm running 0/1 wire that is no more then 2 foot from the battery and the invert, which I do have 0/1 and I might have some 0/0 wire, if I can find the right size lugs. and with over 500a output rateing capacity for a CL and serge rating of over 1k will make a diff?  Is a 24v system worse then a 12v?  I mean I've have the same issue even when the battery voltage is at 30.01v fully topped off and the GS is screaming with its alarm because of such high voltage. . . I get same results, High or Low.

all of my lights in the house are LED, do they flicker.  Not sure, never seen them light up. . . Is there   maybe a mod I can do on the AC line out, maybe some kind of major size Capacitor then a simple 10mu. maybe a 10k mu?

Monday I'm getting in a kit to convert my bib 250a prismatic cells to have a serge rating of 400a with a kit that has a relay to allow such loads. so who knows if that would solve the issue, doubt it.

Either way.  If upgrading the control board to rev c would solve the issue, I don't know, the only issue with trying to upgrade the board is finding somebody to do it for me, or I do it my self and somebody on the forms who done it from rev b to c can help me over the video that has time since Sid is busy on getting the 12k project done.  Or switch the two gs out for a 12k unit, and maybe switching it to a 36 or maybe a 48v system, though if I go that route it'll be 2  years before I could use the thing, since I don't have 8k laying around to get the required extra batteries to do such a thing. I would need two 200a 12, and 4 12v 100a to even do a 48 battery bank upgrade. and thats not includeing that I would still be stuck with a 2500w solar array.

Either way.  I'm stuck with what I got, and unless by chance a money tree or a sugar Momma comes around I only can  do so much.  

I want to run my house completely off grid, and I can mainly do that for nearly 10 hours at the moment. but that is with no hotwater heater, nor running the dryier. everything else and the AC.  Once I add the few other redone batteries to the bank then I can run the hot water heater and dryier as normal, I've already ran both of them on what I got, and the GS ran those with no issue, its the fact, I don't want to be pulling 500a and blow every fuse and safety system I got on the current setup, those ANL fuses ain't cheap to replace.

So as far as I can see, I'm the only one that having a major issue with washing cloths 😛

Anyway, this isn't 12k gs related, and I want to clearfy that Sid has been working with resolveing the issue when he has time, which is well limited :P.  which is more then any other company that make inverters would do, they would say oh well, and just act like they don't hear you.  As of the last firmware that Sid released before he went to the Wonder Lands actually improved the GS in some areas.  The washer actually runs with out the 1 second studdering while simply filling the tub up, and the relay isn't clicking on and off inside the washer main board.  Just it still has some slight little issue causeing it now to not want to cycle to the next step and when driving the motor it sounds like a grinding screaming direct drive motor sound, sort of like when your AC clutch in your car don't engage like it should lol.

This will be the last respones to this topic on here until Sid knows what he want to do.  Will post any update if and when it gets resolved.

I haven't done laundry with mine yet as my washer was broken until a few days ago (will likely try it Monday)

Mine is a 2008 Kenmore HE system top loader 

Mine is some kind of Maytag top loader direct drive. I can pick it up and throw it over my shoulder when its empty. 😛

I think I got this one back in like 2016. so its not old.  I've consider on going to get a belt driven one or clutch which ever, and put this one on a frieght directly to Sid to let him have a go at the thing.  I've also consider on just putting the china lf 3k 12v inverter behind the washer and just have the GS charge the 12v batt when it runs down.  Either way, its something that needs to be figured out, cause something its not likeing and I am the lucky one to have the problem.  I figured if Sid would remote to my computer and log into the mirror deal to the GS to see all the info directly while I start the washer he could pin it down.  Though He runs linux, not sure if team viewer is on linux or not. I mainly useQuickremote from microsoft for remoteing.

Mine is some kind of Maytag top loader direct drive. I can pick it up and throw it over my shoulder when its empty

Picture  of a  direct drive 

I just order one of these. If this don't help lol right now got a 10uf. 600uf should be plenty lol.

https://www.amazon.com/250V-600uF-Capacitor-Motor-Compressor/dp/B07P43CTPM/ref=sr_1_3?content-id=amzn1.sym.9575273b-ecd8-4648-9bf0-15f20c657e0a&keywords=600uf+capacitor&sr=8-3

5 hours ago, The Blind Wolf said:

I figured if Sid would remote to my computer and log into the mirror deal to the GS to see all the info directly while I start the washer he could pin it down.  Though He runs linux, not sure if team viewer is on linux or not. I mainly useQuickremote from microsoft for remoteing.

You can use a service like portmap.io or playit.gg to get a publicly accessible port that would be forwarded to your GS. You can also directly use the port forwarding function of your router, though it's slightly more complex to do that.

Wel, I got a netgear nighthalk wifi6 router. and it hates me so much since its going on its last leg.  Team Viewer would work best.  I have a computer with no personal data on it, and he can log into it and go into the browser to mirror the thing.  Oy, good sun shine today running the GS since this morning and still going strong. makes a diff when you seal up the house and fix any air leaks *laughs*  Going around with my talking temp gun looking for any m ore areas that I can seal or what ever to cut down on energy waist. . 

On 6/9/2023 at 11:22 PM, JIT said:

The voltage waveform is only sine wave when there is little/no load.  The constant flickering (i.e. no only at load turn on/off) is mainly due to inadequate/no compensation for non-linear loads (e.g. microwave, phase-cut dimmer controlled motors and heaters, etc.) that can cause significant voltage waveform distortion.

The flickering has to do with voltage regulation with constantly varying loads.  A constant load will not have any flickering (apart from a brief flicker when it's turned on).

The output of the GS inverter will still be a pretty solid sine wave at full load (providing there's sufficient battery voltage headroom).