Pre-Order Discussions

Do you think that 600uf cap might help smooth the distortion of the serges?  I know on the slave I don't have a cap on it, the master has a cap, but the washer is running off the slave.  I had another  10uf cap but misplaced it and have yet found it, so that is why I order a bigger one lol.  Bigger is better right?  Come on. . . 

Basically it sounds like the solution is less resistance in the overall path. Which is less and less practical as the inverter gets smaller - i'd imagine mainly because the tranny requires the same turn counts (aka, same length), but the conductors are smaller -> more resistance -> more voltage drop -> greater regulator compensation. Ohms law is not our friend.

FWIW, the main issue i've had is similar to your problem. I expanded my battery bank by 50% and the issue has almost been completely resolved - with more power available from the batts, there's less DC voltage drop on load increase, so the voltage doesn't dip as much. I'm wired with much larger 0/2 cable, though - if your batteries can handle it, consider using bigger cable.

I'm also running 0/2 cable on a 48V system 

Well yes, I use 0/2 or 0/1 or 0/0  or what ever it is, I got one type of cable I plan to use later if I can find the lugs for it, the dang lugs you can put your thumb inside.  I bought the cable like back in 2016 for my 12v 6k invert I had in the box truck. forgot where I got it, but I know if you try getting something this thick and by the foot it would probley run you at least $50ft.

All I know is I got to find the right size lugs, I bought some back then, and bought the required tool to cramp them, which was a tool that had a 3 foot handle lever on it lol.

But really, to run this washer I highly doubt its the cable size that is causeing a issue, you can run this thing on a 12v invert useing speaker wire and it would still run like it should.  Only time it going to pull a crap load of power is when it spins up.

Only time it going to pull a crap load of power is when it spins up.

DO the direct drive motor run  when no water and no clothes inside .   Do it spin up with nothing inside ?  

Huh, what do you mean. it rotates back and forth and spins when it goes into spin cycle. otherwise it only spins then. other wise it goes back and forth.  

 Just it still has some slight little issue causeing it now to not want to cycle to the next step .    

IS the  next step  the motor  do nothing and not spin up ?  Maybe wash  half a load . The washer  look  small .    I  may buy a used  Maytag  direct drive  on craiglist .  

What's the part number of the washer 

It appears to be a 3 phase motor with a motor controller (DC brushless)

From what you have posted it appears to have chatter in the controller, possibly from carrier pulses under pulse loads

Also, I got the 600uf cap and put it on the slave GS to see if that fix the washer issue, Nope, didn't make any diff. even when I had the GS under a load the washer still acted as if it didn't want to work, just twittched and you can hear the relay click on and off then twitch and so forth.

Unless I'm doing my caps wrong. I got one wire on the leg, and one on the Nutrual or common wire. since its a AC cap. seems odd a Cap acts the same either on AC or DC. .

Well, unless your dealing with DC cap they have a negative and postive terminal, I'm guessing AC don't.  Also, the Voltage from the outlet of the washer was at 123V 

I'm curious about what all this has to do with "Pre-Order Discussions".

Lol, I think preorder is complete other than some units getting delivered at this point 

I split it into a separate topic.  That rabbit trail turned into an entire rabbit high-rise 😉. 

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Sid,

Back to pre-order questions..

If I order the RS232 option now, is it easy enough for you guys to send me the CAN or RS485 later down the road and I would (re)solder it in?

Jim