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Okay, I got a MSB 60 wifi model, and was wondering is it really needed to run the two battery and solar ports, since it seems fine running on one of each. I couldn't find any info if its really needed. I mean the 10 awg was able to handle the 60 amp output with no issue, other then it did get a little warm. when I was running it in 12v, now fixing to run it 24v battery bank, do I need to run both ports since I'm running a higher voltage I figured it wouldn't heat up like it did with 12v.
Connecting to both of the inputs is not required as far as I know since they go to thr same place on the board. I will need Sean Buckner to verify when he registers on here.
My understanding is it would be ok to use one as long as you keep the current below 30 amps per connection.
My understanding is it would be ok to use one as long as you keep the current below 30 amps per connection.
30 Amps per is the correct rating for most #10AWG wire also. 60 Amp should really be run on two terminals. That heating of the wire is trying to tell him that.
Okay, I got a MSB 60 wifi model, and was wondering is it really needed to run the two battery and solar ports, since it seems fine running on one of each. I couldn't find any info if its really needed. I mean the 10 awg was able to handle the 60 amp output with no issue, other then it did get a little warm. when I was running it in 12v, now fixing to run it 24v battery bank, do I need to run both ports since I'm running a higher voltage I figured it wouldn't heat up like it did with 12v.
Upping the Voltage to 24V will cut the current to 30 Amps so it is fine to use just one at that Voltage. Just remember to keep it at or above 24V so that you don't exceed the current rating.
Upping the Voltage to 24V will cut the current to 30 Amps so it is fine to use just one at that Voltage. Just remember to keep it at or above 24V so that you don't exceed the current rating.
Not true. Output depends on the input. If you dump about 1500w into the controller it will do 60amps @ 24v. It is smarter to just use both because it cannot fit anything bigger than 10awg anyways. Only scenario is on solar input side if you run over double the voltage it will never be able to push over 30a which is fine for a single 10awg wire on the input.
Not true. Output depends on the input. If you dump about 1500w into the controller it will do 60amps @ 24v. It is smarter to just use both because it cannot fit anything bigger than 10awg anyways. Only scenario is on solar input side if you run over double the voltage it will never be able to push over 30a which is fine for a single 10awg wire on the input.
His output Voltage is going to be doubled as he is going to a 24 VDC system. So if he had 60 Amps or less output before on 12 Volts, going to 24 Volts will cut the current in half and would be fine on the #10 AWG output wire. Input Voltage doesn't matter as long as the total Wattage at that point is under 720 Watts. He won't see any current flow till the Voltage is over 24 Volts on the input or it will match what his battery Voltage is which should be below what the panels are rated for. If he wants to go to 1440 Watts, then he would need two on the output. At that point, as long as his input is 48 Volts or better, a single #10 would be able to handle it. There should be a fuse/breaker at the solar panels sized for wire size anyways for safety reasons. Mine is setup for 600 Watts input from 6 100 Watt panels with it being 2 strings of 3 panels where each string is fused at 15 Amps feeding the single #10 wire to the MSB controller. There is another 600 Watts worth still in the boxes. And there is another controller for them as I'm currently running only 30 Amp units. I want redundancy so the reason for two controllers instead of one 60 Amp. Most solar panels only allow for a 15 Amp fuse for them when run in series.