3kw inverter

This behavior has not changed from at least Rev 7.x through the current Rev 11.1.

yes sir, after much more research i decided to go with the 60 amp Epever, wth 4 355 watt panels and a 3500 watt pure sine wave inverter, this part of my build will be to operate fridge, deepfreeze and on sunny days the washing machine.  After i get this all hooked up, i believe ill look into getting a all in one unit for each motor, however i am going to do a lot more research as well as learn how to drive the system i am building.  

A 3500W pure sine wave inverter, care to provide a link?

Do you have the make/model of the solar panels?  It is kinda important to keep in mind the maximum input voltage of the Epever (as they make 150v and 200v versions) vs the highest no-load voltage of the solar panels at the coldest expected temperatures.  (Solar panel voltage/efficiency significantly increases as the ambient temperature goes down.)

If you plan to bump up the size of the system at a later date, you might consider paying a small cost increase for, say, an 80A or 100A Epever--and in the end you might save money over purchasing 2 smaller units.  Food for thought anyway.

i have the JA solar 355 watt with a voc of 47.45 and a imp of 9.16.  if i did calculate it right then i should be close to its limit of 150v.  2 daisy chain 2 in paralell.  i like the idea of having several charge controllers and inverters, that way no single device failure  will shut me down.  yes, you and others have changed my timex analogy, what have i saved if it burns my house down?  once i get educated better with this section, then the next part of the build i believe ill go with a charge controller that can handel the entire 3.2kw of panels but only use it on five of the panels, thinking that will work as a system back up.  there or so many options on custom builds it is literally mind blowing.  for now, ill consentrate on the small 1420 watt system i am curently building.  i have been reading threads on grounding lately and that seems confuseing, why so many different answers?  i am turning my back bedroom into my power plant, so everything will be protected, and already installed a ground buss and tied into house ground through a wall socket.  After reading a section about grounding on here i am more confused than when i started, so if you know of a good read about grounding i could use it.   inverter?  is a xwine, only used long enough to know it works under small loads.  they have zero customer support and can not geta reply.  they sent a bag of fuses and a jumper wire that i could supposedly use to make it a 48vlt inverter, but no instructions on how to or fuse installation.  bought it while looking for a timex, however it has a sixteen lb weight so a decent transformer, apparently.  thank sid, youre a big help.

16lbs...that's DEFINITELY a high-frequency inverter.  It should run your 'fridge, freezer and other simple appliances fine...but don't expect it to start the water pumps.  Or an A/C for that matter.

Quick search for "xwine inverter" turned up one "4000W 24v" inverter listing on eBay...but worth noting is that it is a MODIFIED SINE inverter, not a PURE SINE.  Expect the 'fridge and freezer compressors to run noisily.

For comparison, a 6kw GS inverter weighs right around 50lbs...most of that weight being the low-frequency transformer.

Doubt a "jumper wire" will be able to adjust the inverter from 24v to 48v...on any inverter, the transformer ratio must be changed for proper operation.  On an HF inverter, you'll likely have 4-6 small HF transformers in a row.

Spec sheet here: https://www.sunwize.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/JASolar-JAM72S01-355.pdf

Those are excellent solar panels...I hope you got a good price on them 😉

Module efficiency of 18%...most (including the ones I have!) are 15% efficient.

Found a solar panel temperature coefficient calculator, plugged your solar panel info in, and we find the following:

Quote

You entered

• Total string OC voltage: 94.9
• Nominal maximum power: : 1420
• Worst case temperature: 0
• Temperature coefficient (Voc): -0.3
• Temperature coefficient (Pmax): -0.38

For these, your:

• Total worst case differential is: 25
• Your voltage increase (%) is: 7.5
• Your voltage increase (V) is: 7.1175
• Your maximum voltage (V) is: 102.0175
• Your Pmax increase is (%): 9.5
• Your Pmax increase is (W): 134.9
• Your total Pmax at this temperature is (W): 1554.9

 

Note that I specified 0C as the minimum expected temperature (for the Carribean area anyway!) 

Using the panels in 2 parallel strings of 2 series panels, at 25C, your panels max voltage will be 94.9v.  At 0C, the same panels will produce 102.0v.  Both well within a 150v MPPT's range.

I personally have 3 MPPT charge controllers (1 Morningstar Tristar, and 2 Epever Tracer 8420AN)...all loaded pretty much to the max rating.  Yes, it is important not to exceed the max power rating...but I don't know that you would gain significant reliability by running a charge controller at 30% output.  What damages equipment is more often surge voltages/spikes caused by either lightning, or electrical connect/disconnect instances.

Don't ask me 😉

I've experienced a number of equipment failures as a result of grounding providing a path for electricity to flow through appliances...so I should not comment further on the subject.

haha, i hear you on the grounding.  No, my inverter is the 3500 watt gold series, until i get another one, from an outfit that has a support staff, it will be exclusive to the fridge and df.  once better educated on it ill take it apart and see what i got, i fell pretty sure the fuses will be solder jobs to the mother bord.   on the underpowering of the inverter my goal is to reduce heat stress, after all im steal set on the 24volt system, for now.  i have been toying with the idea of a second battery bank of 48 vlt and two plug and play 48/220 inverters, one for each motor.  panels are two years old and got them for 50 bucks a pop, thats why i jumped in so unprepared, you dont have to be very smart to recognize a deal like that.

You mean this?  https://www.amazon.com/XWJNE-Inverter-Adapter-Converter-Charging/dp/B08T66LR8M?th=1

(XWJNE 3500W inverter?)

They included one partial "stock" photo....

<img data-ratio="75.08" style="margin-top:10px;margin-left:165.711px;height:445px;width:481.578px;" width="999" alt="71R2xVn4PXL._AC_SL1200_.jpg" data-src=" " src="/applications/core/interface/js/spacer.png">

...DEFINITELY a High-Frequency (HF) inverter 😉.

YMMV.  Some are pretty decent, but some are also really shoddy.  I personally had experience with a SwiPower Chinese HF inverter...worked fine for resistive loads (heaters, etc.), but terribly with any sort of surge load.

That is an excellent start to a solar system 😉.  It's comical how many people spend $120-150 for a "100w solar panel", and think they got a good deal...at over $1.00/W.  Your panels come in at a stupendously good $0.14/W...for starting out, you're doing way better than most people!  I purchased my first panels for $0.80/W...thought that was good.